[et_pb_section admin_label=”section” fullwidth=”on” specialty=”off” transparent_background=”off” background_color=”#621c18″ inner_shadow=”off” parallax=”off” parallax_method=”off”][et_pb_fullwidth_header admin_label=”Fullwidth Header” title=”Mongolia” background_layout=”dark” text_orientation=”left” module_class=”.header-right”] [/et_pb_fullwidth_header][/et_pb_section][et_pb_section admin_label=”section” transparent_background=”off” background_color=”#050303″ inner_shadow=”off” parallax=”off” parallax_method=”off”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row”][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/wrangler-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”Wrangler, Hovsgol, Mongolia” title_text=”Wrangler doing an impromptu workout” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left”]
The morning after our last night camping, one of the wranglers started working out with an axle he found in the grass. Then he caught a big fish in the lake visible behind him, and we all ate it for breakfast. The drive to get to where we would take a plane back to Ulaan Bator was 13 hours, over rough roads and mountains. The presence of the driver’s young daughter made me feel safe in spite of the body-sized tool chest behind the driver’s seat. As it turned out, the tool chest was full of all kinds of spare parts, necessary tools scattered among them.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_2″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/waiting-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”driving from Renchilumbe to Moron” title_text=”waiting while the driver fixes the van” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left”]
These items the driver laid out on an old sheet when he pulled over to fix something. Here we are, waiting out the breakdown while the driver tinkers. His daughter stands shading her eyes, the two men we called “the Vikings,” because they were big and strong and always ready to attack any problem with skills and unflappability, are lounging on the grass, the liaison Monkh stands hand on hip, and furthest away, my Kentucky friend is having a cigarette. There is a baby-fist-size flying insect behind and above the girl, looking as though it is an aircraft hovering over the blue mountains beyond.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section][et_pb_section admin_label=”section” fullwidth=”off” specialty=”off”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row”][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ferry-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”on” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”the horses swam across” title_text=”we rode zodiacs across” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” text_text_color=”#000000″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]
The waters were too high for the ferry, so we untacked the horses and let them swim across. The ferry was, we found out on our return, a platform of planks fastened to empty oil drums, pulled hand-over-hand on a cable across the shallow lake by a woman in dress and heels.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/campsite-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”on” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”where we camped” title_text=”campsite in the morning” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” text_text_color=”#000000″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]
This is where we camped on the other side. The farmer whose land it was slaughtered a sheep for us, and we ate on that for a few days, washed down with the ever-present Chinghis Gold vodka. The bottle is embossed with Mongolian script, and I brought it home.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/girls-in-red-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”on” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”during Naadam in Renchilumbe” title_text=”during Naadam in Renchilumbe” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” text_text_color=”#000000″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]
We were in Renchilumbe for Naadam. We were told that a woman dressed as a man once won the wrestling matches, and since that time, the required wrestling outfit bares the breast.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][et_pb_image admin_label=”Image” src=”http://robinmarlowe.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/saridag-inn-1080.jpg” show_in_lightbox=”on” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” alt=”our horses at Saridag Inn in Renchilumbe” title_text=”our horses at Saridag Inn in Renchilumbe” use_overlay=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” text_text_color=”#000000″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]
Here are some of the horses, hitched outside Saridag Inn. This is where I almost burned down my ger (much like a yurt or hogan), trying to dry some gloves. A man missing fingers came in through the night to feed the iron stove.
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